Fork Oil Change. It's a... SNAP!

So, I've got the top yoke in my hand, and I sit with it wondering what to do as if by some benevolent act of grace from the Motorcycle Gods, it will be made right again.  Snapping the left side pinch bolt off and leaving the threads in my 'unobtainium alloy' yoke isn't quite what I anticipated dealing with as I set out to "just change my fork oil".

Can of worms?  Hmmm.  Pandora's Box?  Well, I guess it was all that!

I'm at 58K on the clock now with my 1995 Trident , about 12K put on since I bought it last July.  So I'm looking at 12K service interval items, and I decide it's time to look at the front forks.  I have no idea what's in there, one of the PO's had already made a lot of mods, so the forks could have titanium springs in them for all I know!  At the very least I'll change the fork oil.

I began by loosening the dust caps on the tops of the forks.  Then I removed the pinch bolts on the upper and lower yokes of the triple tree.  The upper left's a little tight, thus the predicament I describe above.  The forks slide out nice and easy.  I unscrewed the caps, dumped the old stinky fork oil out, and pumped them a few times.  I lifted the dust seals and inspected the fork seals as well.


As I drop the springs out through my now inverted forks, I notice that these are strange looking springs: they're only about 12-1/2" long constant rate coils, and have 10"spacers!  I didn't see any sign that they have been cut either (you CAN do that -- at your own risk!), but if they were cut, it was a pretty professional job, as all of the ends were ground square.


Before I removed the forks, I took sag measurements (check out Keith Code's video) on the front with the aid of a couple of zip ties positioned just above fork seals.  It was tough doing the measurement solo.  Because of this, I'm not positive that the measurement was dead on, because I got a sag percentage of about 15% which would be super stiff.  These springs are obviously aftermarket, I'm guessing much stiffer than stock looking at the other performance upgrades on the bike.  I'm going to roll the dice on this one and say that these springs are fine, and just go with a replenishment of 10w fork oil (proper spec).

Now as I'm about to dash out the door to get the fork oil, for some reason, something told me to wait.  Suddenly, all I could think of was the diluted wheel grease I noted on the left side of my wheel when I took it off.  A-HA!  I'll bet the crush washer at the bottom of the fork is probably leaking oil ever-so-slightly, which is working its way into the bearings.  Even if that's NOT it, I'd better get those bolts out of the bottom of the forks and Do It Right!  Fortunately I repacked the wheel grease at my last tire change, so I'm in good shape.

As I review my shop manual for the procedure to dismantle a Kayaba non-adjustable fork, it mentions use of the dreaded Triumph Factory Tool!  Here at Shadetree Motorsports, we hate the mention of the words 'Factory Tool'.  That means either: A) ponying up and buying the gold plated tool you need, or B) making the tool or a reasonable substitute that will harm neither you or the bike.

I get one of the bolts out by using a dowel with a handle (plastic of course) that was able to just hold the damping cylinder in place while I turned the bolt at the bottom.  I wasn't so lucky on the other one, so I figure this is a slow pitch for Street Cycles to have them get the other damping cylinder, it's just one bolt.  Sure enough though, they didn't have my $.76 crush washer in stock (7-10 days on Triumph parts!).  BUT, since I got the other bolt and washer pulled we matched a washer of the same inner diameter from a Suzuki -- perfect!  They quickly put the forks together, topped them off with oil and resealed them.

Here's the good part!  So I'm psyched, reinstalling the already serviced forks should be easy, kind of like filling your tire or adjusting your chain.  So, I slide the left fork into place, take my proper measurement from the top of the cap to the top of the yoke.  I insert the 6mm hex and begin to turn.  It turns strangely tight at first, followed by sudden looseness, then -- *SNAP!*  The bolt head snapped off the yoke leaving the threads inside the yoke!  DOH!!!  Looks like the yoke's going to have to come off so that the bolt can be drilled out in my drill press.  I'm possibly looking at a helicoil here.

Now coupled with this sudden obstacle, I have a Storz mounting bracket for handle bar risers that I cannot seem to get off so that I can pull the yoke!  The photo here is what is on my bike.  The allen bolts securing the bracket to the top of the yoke are apparently of some weird size: 6mm seems way too loose, 7mm is way too large, 5/16" seems like it should fit, because that's what the handlebar risers use.  But, even 1/4" is too large.  I manage to coax the Storz bolts out putting the 6mm hex bit into a thick, blue paper shop towel, then into the bolt head.  Somehow, it was just enough for me work them free.

I'm sure many will opine on their favorite way the top yoke off, which might mean removal of the stem and headset -- meaning, of course, the need to repack head bearings -- whatever.  It's not just a bolt off job on 1993 and up T309s, because there is a safety tab on the front of the frame which prevents removal of the top yoke by just lifting up after the 30mm retaining bolt is removed.  So, I decided that my best angle of attack was to remove the tank -- just two bolts here.  After I slid the tank off to the left and onto my bench, I could then turn the top yoke a full 90 degrees to the left, and past the safety tabs and lift the top yoke off the triple tree.

So, here I am with the yoke in my hand.  I decide it's time to just write the check on this one.  I do some business with Tammy and Nate Jones over at Custom Hawg in Scarborough, ME, and had been conversing with them via email about my predicament.  Tammy replied that I could bring the yoke over anytime and have Nate look at it.  That's what I will do.  Instead of taking the risk of knackering my 'unobtainium alloy' yoke, I'll give it to the guy who has probably looked down the barrels of many such scenarios in his day.  Not only did Nate totally set me up, he dropped what he was doing to do so!  I can't say that he will not be in the middle of project he can't break away from when YOU walk in, but it would be well worth your while!  In less than an hour, Nate was able to drill out the old bolt and chase the threads without a helicoil.  In fact, he took it to the next level and chased all of threads on the yoke because they looked a little beat!  Many thanks!

I left Custom Hawg with a smile on my face, and proceeded to tell them that I'm only 1.5 hours from putting it all back together -- they chuckled but said not a word!  I chuckled louder when I got home and looked at the rat's nest that was once a decent-looking bike.  1.5 hours?  Not a chance.  LOL!  I'm looking at probably twice that.  Oh, well, I don't have to be in Daytona for the conclusion of Bike Week or anything, so no big deal.  I'm going to take my time on reassembly, clean spots that haven't seen the light of day for 10-15 years, and Do It Right!

Spring Safety 101

If you’re like me, living in the northeast, you’re champing at the bit to get out on that first forty-whatever degree day to ride, provided the roadways are free of patchy snow or ice.  Before you break your filly out of the stable, take a moment to pause and reflect on some of the details we tend to take for granted during the height of the riding season when our minds are sharper and our bodies are better accustomed to riding. 

Early spring riding presents unique challenges, but a little attention to safety and detail can shake the cobwebs out quickly and easily.

SAND AND ROAD DEBRIS.  Early in the season, sand and loose gravel dropped by plow trucks can easily accumulate in the middle and sides of roadways.  Larger patches of sand often get flung into corners, and they’re sometimes easy to miss until you’re right on top of them.  Train yourself to anticipate sand and gravel in unexpected places.  Use a great deal of caution when turning at intersections, as this is a place where a great deal of sand and gravel accumulates.  Last spring, I went through a patch of sand so large I thought I had taken a wrong turn through some kid's sandbox.  Don’t panic, don’t jam the brakes, and stay with the bike!

Back roads are frequently littered with sticks, small logs and brush in the early spring.  Alertness, riding at safe speeds and knowledge of countersteering techniques are good tools to keep handy!  The omnipresence of sand and road debris in the spring is also a good reason to keep your distance when riding in groups.

TIRES.  Cold weather can have a noticeable impact on tire pressures.   Be sure to check for proper pressure each day you ride.  The variance can be significant from one day to the next due to changing air temperatures.  A good, small and portable battery operated tire gauge can be had for about $10.

One thing we tend to forget when we first head out on a ride is that cold tires do not grip as well as warm tires.  Make sure you take a little extra time on cold days to let the friction from the road surface warm up your tires.  Leaning into the first corner of your ride on a cold day can quickly find you on your keester. 

VISIBILITY.  Remember, you as a motorcyclist are new to the landscape for the average driver who hasn’t seen the likes of your kind for several months now.  So, early in the season, car drivers aren’t exactly “trained” to be watching for motorcyclists.  Do YOUR part by anticipating the actions of others and riding at safe speeds in traffic.  That vehicle at the upcoming intersection – are they going to pull out in front of you???  Don’t look at the driver, watch their front wheel to see if you can see it begin to rotate.  If it’s does, be ready to take action.

A brightly colored fluorescent gear is a good way to maximize your visibility.  If you don't want to spend the big bucks re-equipping yourself, vests are available for a song and a dance.

A flashing brake light setup can enhance your visibility for vehicles behind you.  For a few days last summer, I traveled with a rider using one of these setups.  I must say it really does get the attention of people behind you.

Also, keep your distance between yourself and the vehicle in front of you so that oncoming traffic can clearly see you from a distance, and they will likely be less inclined to make a turn across your lane.  Pretending YOU are invisible to others can be helpful practice for safe riding.

WARM AND DRY.  It’s easy to underestimate the impact of cold weather when riding.  You start out, it’s 45 to 50 degrees, maybe cooler, feels nice.  But now, you’re generating a 50 to 60 mph wind, and travel 30 miles away where the air temperature has dropped another 5 degrees.  Suddenly, you’re feeling like a member of the Shackleton Expedition!  Your best bet is to go with heated gear.  Jackets, vests, pants and gloves all are available and easily plug into a 12-volt connection from your bike.  If you don’t have electrics, then be sure to layer up your undergarments using lightweight, synthetic layers to keep you dry AND warm.  If you must use cotton, or cotton blend layers, try to keep synthetic layers closest to your skin for best moisture management.  It’s easy to shed and add layers as needed.  Also be sure to take in plenty of fluids.  A warm, comfortable rider is more relaxed and in better control of the bike than a cold rider.

Stay alert, sharp and focused and be in tune with your surroundings early in the season.  A little extra caution will repay with safer, more relaxed and enjoyable riding!

©2010, Jeff Trent, all rights reserved.

International Motorcycle Show - Javitts Center, New York City, NY

As I sit in on this cold January morning and bid the first month of the year goodbye, it's hard to believe that I was actually able to ride for a short period of time this weekend.  Since consistent riding weather feels like it has a good while ripen yet, what could be better to the yearning rider than a winter road trip to The Big City, and a chance to gawk at tons of cool motorcycles and gear that I'll never get to own!

Last weekend presented just such an opportunity at the Cycle World International Motorcycle Show.  I went with four others from the area, three of whom I was meeting for the first time.  We found some reasonable rooms just south of Times Square for $129/night only 15 minutes walking distance from Javitts.  The whole trip was kind of like a drive-by, as we strolled in early Friday evening and departed early Saturday afternoon.  Nonetheless, I thought some out there might be entertained and wowed by some of the show's highlights and lowlights.

Dumb Way Round.  Upon reading the travel account of Norwegian motorcycling duo Tormud Amlien and Klaus Ulvestad, our first thought is, that this was a creative parody of McGregor's and Boorman's heavily supported, made for screen adventure series.  But, "NEI", as they say in Norway.  These guys are for real.  Read about their adventures traveling around the world on a couple of 70-year old motorcycles at this website: http://www.kccd.no/.  As (we) Norwegians are not known for their (our) bubbling personality and open candor, I found the read much more interesting than Tormud's talk at the show.

Tormud's vintage Nimbus with sidecar was available for inspection on the show floor though, and I must admit it was pretty cool.  I have a good photo here showing the exposed valve train - amazing piece of motorcycling history here.

Confederate Motorcycles.  Alright, most of the motorcylist enthusiast crowd knows who these guys are.  They're the ones that build those very neo-industrial looking bikes.  You know the ones that, if you left them alone for five minutes, look like they would turn themselves into a Transformer.  Got it?  Good!  Now that we're on the same page, I want to show you a photo of someone at Confederate that clearly isn't on the right page -- in fact, I don't think he even has the right book.

Yes, I'm talking about the suit on the phone.  Before I castrate this guy with my keyboard here, let me just say, I'm the last person who has anything against "suits", or entrepreneurial individuals who want to make money.  But if you look and act like an jackass, a suit only draws more attention to you!

Now, this guy, to me, looks like the biggest jackass on the planet!  Here is obviously The Money Guy at fledgling start up Confederate.  Instead of pressing flesh and talking to people that might actually buy his product, he deemed it more important to LOOK VERY BUSY at this consumer, open to the public industry show.  WTF kind of deals and important phone calls is he making to command such a presence at 10 am on a Saturday?!  His presence said simply, "I am way too important to talk to regular people."  Meanwhile, his colleague, or someone The Money Guy meant to look not as important as Him, was out in front answering questions and pimping the product.

It's easy to play armchair investor/CEO, but if I'm in his chair, I'm NOT sitting in it!  No, I'm rolling up my sleeves, putting on the company logo golf shirt and standing out on the front lines talking to people.  I'll bet the feedback is just keen from that seat back there!  I think the out of place nature of Money Guy gave Him more attention than his product.  Probably just what he wanted.

BMW.  Ooo, ahh!  The new BMW S1000RR.  This latest model entry of world-beater sport bike certainly got a lot of attention at the show.  For just 15-large you can have this race ready, street legal cruise missle.  193 HP.  This guy's sitting on it like he's bought it, paid for it, now he's just waiting for the temp plates, registration and title app.

Good Ol Boys.  It's great to see somethings are just timeless.  No better way to pick yerself up a Daisy of your own than with this sweet take off of the Dukes of Hazard car.  I think some dude named Cletus brought it in.


T-Rex.  Alright, is it a motorcycle or is it a car?  I don't think it knows!  If I had 50-large in my pocket to burn, I could find out.  I'm sure it'll turn heads at the very least.  It's kind of like a Can-Am on steroids!

Ducati.  Probably the most impressive manufacturer "presence" there, complete with a hip-hop dance show at noon.  Here's one of the new sportbikes... "Ok, we'll take one of these and a supermotard -- you get lunch!"

Honda DN-01.  Interesting.  It really does "crossover": sleek and angular like a sport bike, roomy and comfy like a cruiser.

Can-Am Spyder.  Interesting and unique in the motorsport world.   But, I don't want one.

I do see their place, however.  It can really be great for older riders, and/or those with limited mobility.  It's a great way to have motorcycle feel with the steering simplicity offered by that of an automobile.

Yamaha Race Suit.  This was a demo suit whose occupant high sided wearing this on the track at 140 mph!  With only a slight concussion, the rider walked away.  What a powerful testament to the protective capabilities of this very important road armor! 

Harley-Davidson XR1200.  Nothing much to say here other than the fact that I really like this bike.  It's not too dressy, it's got classic looks and it's affordable. 

We caught most of the show before noon.  Fortunate it was that we got in when the show first opened, because by noon, you could hardly move on the floor.  All in all, a great little getaway.  I think everyone wants to do it again next year.  

PS - Yes, Peter, I remember the moped conversation.  Just give me the cost parameters

and "WHERE TO"...

Cheers!

DIY Electrical Junction Box

Now more than ever our motorcycles' electrical systems are becoming taxed. Our ever increasing demand for the latest gear and gadgets such as a GPS, heated grips, heated gear, radar detector, cell phone chargers demands additional wires and connections, and by the time we've added the electric coffee mug warmer, it can look like a rat's nest beneath your seat and behind your headlamp. AND, if you never bothered to wire in a protective fuse, it can also create the potential risk for power surges and blown circuits. BUT, it doesn't have to be this way...

Today, we'll walk through the construction of an electrical junction box for your motorcycle. For about $20, this assembly will enable you to safely route and arrange your wires in an organized fashion, and protect them with an inline fuse. This setup will not only protect you from power surges, but will keep you from forgetting to turn all that "stuff" off and cooking your battery, because we wire this setup to be turned on and off with the key! The entire procedure will involve a trip to your local Radio Shack, and about an hour or so to actually do the work. So, go get the stuff, grab yourself a beer and get to work!!!

First let's start with tools required:
• #2 Philipps HD Screwdriver
• Wire cutter
• Wire stripper (carefully used pocket knife is ok)
• Wire crimper or sturdy pliers
• 2-liter plastic soda bottle (optional)

Now, the bill of materials:
• 8-post Dual-Row Barrier Block (distribution block)
• 8-post Position Jumper Cut in half
• Red and Black 18-gauge Wire
• Green 18-gauge Wire (opt., subst black)
• 5 Female Spade Connectors to crimp on
• 1 Male Spade Connectors to crimp on
• 2 Large U-shaped connectors to crimp on
• Several Small U-shaped connectors to crimp on
• 12V 30A Automotive Relay
• In-line fuse with 20A Fuse (not always included)
• Quick Connects to splice into wire
• Small Zip Ties
• Electrical Tape

Begin the project by taking a look at the wiring diagram posted here to get a feel for how everything will go together.

1. Strip the both ends of the lead wires from the inline fuse. Crimp one of the large U-shaped connectors around one end, this will go directly to the positive post on the battery. Crimp one of the female spade connectors around the other end. Plug this female spade connector onto the relay post marked #87.

2. Remove the Dual-Row Barrier Block from the packaging and loosen (do not remove) the screws.

Remove the 8-post jumper from the packaging and cut it in half. This is usually accomplished by bending the metal to and fro until it breaks. Lay the barrier block in front of you oriented left to right. Take one half of the jumper you just broke off and secure it beneath the 4 adjacent screws starting with the screw at the TOP LEFT. Now, take the other half of the jumper you just broke off and secure it beneath the 4 adjacent screws starting with the screw at the BOTTOM RIGHT. Refer to the wiring diagram for the correct orientation of the jumpers.

3. Cut a length of red wire about 12" long, and strip both ends. Your length of wire may vary depending on how far the relay is to be mounted from the block. Attach a female spade connector to one end, and plug it into the post marked #30 on the relay. To the other end, attach a small U-shaped connector, or twist the wire and solder it. Then attach this other end to the POSITIVE side of the block as indicated in the diagram.

4. Cut a length of black wire about 18" long, and strip both ends. Again, your length of wire may vary depending on how far the block is to be mounted from the battery. Crimp one of the large U-shaped connectors around one end, this will go directly to the NEGATIVE post on the battery. Crimp one of the small U-shaped connectors around the other end, or twist the wire and solder it. Then attach this small U-shaped connector to the NEGATIVE side of the block as indicated in the diagram.

5. Cut another length of black wire about 12" long, and strip both ends. Attach a female spade connector to one end, and plug it into the post marked #86 on the relay. To the other end, attach a small U-shaped connector, or twist the wire and solder it. Then, attach this other end to the NEGATIVE side of the block also, as indicated in the diagram.

6. Finally, we need to draw power from a switched power source. I tapped into the power to the taillight for my power source. And conveniently, the wire to the taillight of my 1995 Triumph Trident was a regular-sized female spade connector. Cut two lengths of green wire (or marked black wire), one about 18" long, the other 6" long and strip both ends of each wire. To the 18" piece, attach a female spade connector to one end, and plug it into the post marked #85 on the relay. Take the other end of the 18" piece and twist one of the stripped ends of the 6" piece onto it. Now crimp a male spade connector onto the two wires you just twisted together.

Unplug the switched power source (or splice into the line). Here, it was the regular-sized female spade connector connected to the taillight. I had to remove my taillight to accomplish this part. Attach a female spade connector to the other end of the 6" piece of green wire, and plug it into the taillight. Take the male spade connector attached to the two green wires you just twisted together, and plug it into the connector you just unplugged from the taillight.

Voila! You now have switchable power. All you need to do now to add accessories is to take your positive and negative leads from the accessory, crimp small U-shaped connectors to them (or solder the ends), and attach them to the appropriate sides of the block. To better discern positive from negative leads, I went the extra step of marking the screws on the positive side of the block with a red Sharpie, and those on the negative side with a black Sharpie.

I have access to thin flexible plastic sheet stock as well. I used this to fold a protective layer above and beneath the junction box to protect the connections from possibly shorting out. The edges are open in order to route the wires. As a substitute, I would cut a rectangular section out from a plastic soda bottle measuring 4" x 10". Fold it in half so it becomes two 4" x 5" sections. Use this as a sheath for the box, and tuck the edges away from the fold under the igniter box.

I took it for a test run just the other day, and it works great! Everything switches on and off just as it should, and no more worrying about dead batteries!